Hunting for Tissu, Dentelle, Linge Ancien & Boutons

I belong to the Milwaukee Art Quilters group (MArQ). At the meeting one month before leaving for Celebrate French Textiles 2024, I asked the group if they would like it if I brought fabric back from France that would be the basis of a quilt challenge. The reply was yes and so I was on a shopping mission, or a hunt for tissu, linge ancien, dentelle and boutons – fabric, vintage linen, lace and buttons, - when I got to France.

France’s fabric, lace, linens and embellishment industry is best described as a living heritage of "savoir-faire" – a blend of centuries-old artisanal craftsmanship and high-tech luxury innovation. While global competition has reduced the industry's physical scale, France is the global center for high-end, "couture-grade" materials.

The first opportunity happened at Chateau Dumas, where we were staying in southern France. Fabienne comes to the chateau with her SUV filled with vintage linens and trinkets. From her I found a large white linen tablecloth. I thought that even cut up, it was large enough that everyone could use it as a foundation piece.

The rest was discovered in Paris. My first stop was part of the famous Paris Flea Markets. There are many flea markets, but we went to Marché Vernaison. With over 300 stands, the Vernaison market is THE original flea market in Paris, born in 1920. Vernaison is a premier destination for sourcing authentic vintage French linen, including monogrammed sheets, antique tablecloth and embroidered napkins. 

I found a large, rich blue damask. I loved it! The vendor said she would sell it to me for €45. It had a price tag of €90! And from that piece the predominant color scheme was determined – blue. I had thought many of the fabrics I would get would be the rich red France is known for. But this piece was exquisite and so wonderful that I changed the color scheme to blue from here on out.

In another stall I found hand-dyed blue linen napkins. This vendor had little piles of dyed napkins in a rainbow of colors. So I bought several shades of blue linen napkins.

Still in Vernaison, I went to Madame Giovaninina’s shop. Madame Giovannoni customers travel from all over the world to visit and purchase the finest French table linens. This is not a stall like the other vendors, but a shop with glass windows and a door. You know you are stepping in to something special.  She has lovely piles of napkins and tablecloths, but also christening gowns, gloves, and drawers filled with chemise de nuits, or nightgowns, and lingerie. French lingerie is known for timeless elegance and exquisite craftsmanship, featuring delicate lace, intricate embroidery and luxurious fabrics. Here I got a bundle of lace for the ladies of MArQ. Some Chantilly and some Lyon lace, plus a variety of others.

Next stop was in the city of Versailles. Just past the Château de Versailles is the headquarters of Maison Sajou. This is where Sajou was founded, “It is where we send out all our website orders, it is also where all our products are created. In short, it is the heart of Sajou.”

So even though it looks like a shop, it is not open to the public. But I was able to make an appointment with Frédérique Crestin-Billet the founder of Sajou. Frédérique says, “By visiting us, you will also get extra perks: you can compose your own sewing set, choose your own assortment of threads or fabrics, you will have access to some of our ribbons by the meter. You can also see the finished result of our embroidery kits and, of course, have our products in hand and test our scissors.”

Here in the treasure trove of Sajou, fat quarters were selected. I had help here from Marybeth, who is part of MArQ and traveled with our group. Marybeth chose a fabulous assortment of blue prints.

Another day in Paris we shopped the famed Montmartre fabric district. At the center is Marché Saint-Pierre, which opened in the 1920’s. With six levels of choice quality fabrics, they claim to be the largest fabric store in the world. Each level feels like its own unique store.

This is where I found several Provencal fabrics. Provencal fabrics evoke the vivid hues of Southern France. The inspiration for these fabrics is drawn from the region’s natural landscape – the purple fields of lavender, the vibrant yellow of sunflowers and lemons, the silver-green of olive groves and the glorious blue sky of Provence.

Last, during part of the Haberdashery shopping day, I got something special just for me.

At La Droguerie, a family-run haberdashery specializing in novelty items since 1975, I found blue velvet buttons. I’ve never seen velvet buttons before, but of course you would in Paris! Besides this wall of yarn, this colorful haberdashery has beads, buttons, ribbons, patches, fabrics by the meter, patterns, earring findings, notebooks, zippers, fabric remnants, bias tape, plus exclusive ideas and expert, tailor-made advice. The women who own this shop are “re-enchanting the concept of La Droguerie by sharing everything we love, everything that's dynamic and brings joy!”

Before we leave France, just a few more photos of treasures found inside the haberdashery shops - silk embroidery floss and shiny silk threads from Au Ver à Soie, in business since 1820; walls of buttons from Dam Boutons; hat veils from the now closed Mercerie; exquisite lace and trims from Mokuba; rows of ribbon from the famed haberdashery shop Ultramod, which has been open since 1832. Such beautiful eye-candy!

Back in Wisconsin, the fabrics and laces were divided up and handed out to the “French Connection” challenge participants. I also provided an extensive list of French fabric and embellishment resources. Everything on the top layer had to be from France.

A few months later an array of items were made with some wild and heartwarming stories to go along with the creations! Below enjoy the variety of French Connection fiber art made by MArQ.